Friday, December 27, 2013

HOW TO MAKE A NIGHTGOWN. (SEW ALONG WITH ME) PART I



 
Hi, again my friends:
 
This is a new section called "sew along with me". Actually, this is my first one and I hope you enjoy it!
 
I am open to your comments, feel free to add some techniques, tips, recommendations, etc., you will think can improve my "sew along with me". We are here to learn together and have fun. 
 
This project, a nightgown for a Lady, is from the pattern McCalls M-5989. The size is 16, that corresponds to a LARGE size.
 
You may need:
 
*1 yard of fabric (60 inches width)
Suggested fabric to use: Cotton, cotton blends, cotton flannel.
*Matching threads.
*Lace trims.
*Sewing Machine.
*Serger (optional)
*Pins.
*Cutting Mat
*Rotary Cutter
*Wax paper to copy the pattern (I bought mine at Dollar Tree for one dollar) You can use any paper you want, but I have found that this work great.
 
**For this project I have used Satin Primorose lightpink, which is 97% polyester and 3% spandex. It is a delicate fabric and it is easy to work with, but be careful because it may fray a little.
 
You need patterns number: 8,9,10,12,13 and 14.
 
 
Once you have copied the patterns using the wax paper, you need to transfer them into the fabric using a Taylor's chalk. (the little blue square next to the rotary cutter) 
 
 
Here you can see the patterns onto the fabric ready to be cut. I used that little bottles to avoid my patterns move while I transfer them into the fabric. By the way, the little bottles were from jelly, that someone brought me from Hawaii.

 
Here you can see that I have already transfer pattern Number 8, which is the front bodice. Can you see the blue lines?
 
The pattern is already transferred to the fabric and I am cutting it off, using a rotary cutter. Make sure you have the fabric secure with enough pins, so it can not move while you cut. You need to cut two.
 
Front Bodice

Now I am going to transfer pattern Number 13, which is lower back. Make sure the fabric is fold. Still using the little bottles from Hawaii. (I am using my wrist pincushion! You really need to get one of this for you. So useful!!!!)

Using a Taylor's chalk, transfer pattern Number 13 into the fabric. Cut 1 on FOLD.
 
 

This little marks are so useful when you are sewing, so please don't forget to transfer them too, into your fabric.
 
 
Also transfer and cut off, the shoulder straps. Cut 2.

Mark the fold line.
 
This is the drawstring. Cut 2

When you are done, keep each piece labeled with the pattern name, number and size. Then I fold all the pattern pieces and clip them together and hold them on the wall. Works for me. I think that is my idea of organization.
.
I have put little labels over each piece of the fabric already cut.
 

Detail of the back bodice labeled.
 
Press under 5/8" (1.5cm) on upper edge of each bodice.

Here you can see the upper straight edge of each bodice front section.

Trim pre-under edge to sed 3/8" (1 cm)
 
Pin bodice front section, right sides together. Stich center seam, from lower edge to square (here it comes how it is so important to transfer every mark from the original pattern), leaving free between circles for casing.
 

 
Can you see that I have left the space between the square and circles free for the casing?

Finish front edges of bodice with 5/8" (1.5cm) narrow hem, continuing stitching to lower edge.

Press under 5/8" (1cm) on long edges of shoulder strap.

Iron carefully.

I took another shoot. I think it is better...or is it the same picture??.

edge stitch pressed under edges and along remaining long edge. 

Sorry, the picture went up side down.
On out side pin shoulder straps to bodice back. matching small circles, squares and having raw edges even. Stich 5/8" (1.5 cm) Baste to raw edges.

To form the casing, fold on the line inside and Iron carefully.

I like to iron every time I stich.

 
Turn upper edge of bodice back to inside along foldline, turning straps upward. Press. Turn under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge and stich in place. Keep straps free.
 
5/8" and 1/4"
 

 
Cut 2 pieces of elastic of 20" each, using the guide for elastic, which is pattern number 11. Insert one piece through bodice casing, having ends even.
 
Stich across ends of casing, catching in elastic. Save the other piece of the elastic, you will need it later.

Pin back to front bodice at sides, matching notches, and having upper edge of back 5/8" (1.5cm) down from upper edge. Stich. Press seam allowances toward front, continuing to press under 5/8"  (1.5 cm) above casing. Iron carefully. Finish armholes edges with a 5/8" (1.5 cm) narrow hem. Iron carefully.
 
 
With right sides up, pin lace trim to front edges of bodice fronts, having one long edge just over finished edges and along center seam, turning under ends even with armholes edges. Edge stich lace in place leaving open between small circles.
 
 

I am sewing Edge stich lace in place, being careful to leave open between small circles.

I have already stich lower front to lower back bodice at sides.

 


Pin lower front and back to bodice, right sides together, matching notches, centers and seams. Stich taking up a 3/4" (2 cm) seam allowance.

 
I am sewing here leaving 3/4" (2 cm) seam allowance.
 
Reference: Mc Calls Pattern Number 5989
 
 
END OF PART ONE.

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