Sunday, December 29, 2013

HOW TO MAKE A NARROW HEM (WITH PICTURES)

HELLO, AGAIN:

I WAS TRYING TO DO THE PERFECT NARROW HEM. AFTER VIEWING A FEW VIDEOS ON YOUTUBE AND READING SOMETHING ABOUT IT, I HAVE REALIZED THAT THERE IS NOT SUCH A "PERFECT" HEM, BUT THAT EVERYONE SEWS ACCORDINGLY WHAT THEY HAVE LEARNT OR ACCORDINGLY THEIR OWN EXPERIENCE.

I CAME OUT WITH MY OWN METHOD, AND HERE I SHARE IT WITH YOU. IT IS USEFUL SPECIALLY IF THE FABRIC YOU ARE USING FRAYS A LOT.

Stich 1/4" (6MM) from lower edge. It could be a hem for a dress, robe, sleeves, etc. using long stiches.
 
 
Turn up 3/8" (1cm) hem at lower edge of the garment (dress, robe, sleeves)
 
 


Stich over again. I have found that stitching this way I can control the fraying of the fabric. and TADA! the perfect narrow hem! (Did I mentioned that there is not such a "perfect" narrow hem??)
 


HOW TO MAKE A NIGHTGOWN (SEW ALONG WITH ME) PART II


Hello, my friends!

Here is the second part of How to make a nightgown, using a Mc Calls Pattern (Please see the post about How to make a Nightgown Part I).

 And now I have finished the garment.  I hope you can do yours. See you soon!

To make a narrow hem, turn inside lower edge, about 1/4" and stich.
 
 
Then turn again and stich again. With this method you are going to avoid the fray.
 
Stich in place the shoulder straps.
 
 
Voila! The nightgown!
 
Detail of front view of the nightgown.
 

LARGE SIZE.

Friday, December 27, 2013

HOW TO MAKE A NIGHTGOWN. (SEW ALONG WITH ME) PART I



 
Hi, again my friends:
 
This is a new section called "sew along with me". Actually, this is my first one and I hope you enjoy it!
 
I am open to your comments, feel free to add some techniques, tips, recommendations, etc., you will think can improve my "sew along with me". We are here to learn together and have fun. 
 
This project, a nightgown for a Lady, is from the pattern McCalls M-5989. The size is 16, that corresponds to a LARGE size.
 
You may need:
 
*1 yard of fabric (60 inches width)
Suggested fabric to use: Cotton, cotton blends, cotton flannel.
*Matching threads.
*Lace trims.
*Sewing Machine.
*Serger (optional)
*Pins.
*Cutting Mat
*Rotary Cutter
*Wax paper to copy the pattern (I bought mine at Dollar Tree for one dollar) You can use any paper you want, but I have found that this work great.
 
**For this project I have used Satin Primorose lightpink, which is 97% polyester and 3% spandex. It is a delicate fabric and it is easy to work with, but be careful because it may fray a little.
 
You need patterns number: 8,9,10,12,13 and 14.
 
 
Once you have copied the patterns using the wax paper, you need to transfer them into the fabric using a Taylor's chalk. (the little blue square next to the rotary cutter) 
 
 
Here you can see the patterns onto the fabric ready to be cut. I used that little bottles to avoid my patterns move while I transfer them into the fabric. By the way, the little bottles were from jelly, that someone brought me from Hawaii.

 
Here you can see that I have already transfer pattern Number 8, which is the front bodice. Can you see the blue lines?
 
The pattern is already transferred to the fabric and I am cutting it off, using a rotary cutter. Make sure you have the fabric secure with enough pins, so it can not move while you cut. You need to cut two.
 
Front Bodice

Now I am going to transfer pattern Number 13, which is lower back. Make sure the fabric is fold. Still using the little bottles from Hawaii. (I am using my wrist pincushion! You really need to get one of this for you. So useful!!!!)

Using a Taylor's chalk, transfer pattern Number 13 into the fabric. Cut 1 on FOLD.
 
 

This little marks are so useful when you are sewing, so please don't forget to transfer them too, into your fabric.
 
 
Also transfer and cut off, the shoulder straps. Cut 2.

Mark the fold line.
 
This is the drawstring. Cut 2

When you are done, keep each piece labeled with the pattern name, number and size. Then I fold all the pattern pieces and clip them together and hold them on the wall. Works for me. I think that is my idea of organization.
.
I have put little labels over each piece of the fabric already cut.
 

Detail of the back bodice labeled.
 
Press under 5/8" (1.5cm) on upper edge of each bodice.

Here you can see the upper straight edge of each bodice front section.

Trim pre-under edge to sed 3/8" (1 cm)
 
Pin bodice front section, right sides together. Stich center seam, from lower edge to square (here it comes how it is so important to transfer every mark from the original pattern), leaving free between circles for casing.
 

 
Can you see that I have left the space between the square and circles free for the casing?

Finish front edges of bodice with 5/8" (1.5cm) narrow hem, continuing stitching to lower edge.

Press under 5/8" (1cm) on long edges of shoulder strap.

Iron carefully.

I took another shoot. I think it is better...or is it the same picture??.

edge stitch pressed under edges and along remaining long edge. 

Sorry, the picture went up side down.
On out side pin shoulder straps to bodice back. matching small circles, squares and having raw edges even. Stich 5/8" (1.5 cm) Baste to raw edges.

To form the casing, fold on the line inside and Iron carefully.

I like to iron every time I stich.

 
Turn upper edge of bodice back to inside along foldline, turning straps upward. Press. Turn under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge and stich in place. Keep straps free.
 
5/8" and 1/4"
 

 
Cut 2 pieces of elastic of 20" each, using the guide for elastic, which is pattern number 11. Insert one piece through bodice casing, having ends even.
 
Stich across ends of casing, catching in elastic. Save the other piece of the elastic, you will need it later.

Pin back to front bodice at sides, matching notches, and having upper edge of back 5/8" (1.5cm) down from upper edge. Stich. Press seam allowances toward front, continuing to press under 5/8"  (1.5 cm) above casing. Iron carefully. Finish armholes edges with a 5/8" (1.5 cm) narrow hem. Iron carefully.
 
 
With right sides up, pin lace trim to front edges of bodice fronts, having one long edge just over finished edges and along center seam, turning under ends even with armholes edges. Edge stich lace in place leaving open between small circles.
 
 

I am sewing Edge stich lace in place, being careful to leave open between small circles.

I have already stich lower front to lower back bodice at sides.

 


Pin lower front and back to bodice, right sides together, matching notches, centers and seams. Stich taking up a 3/4" (2 cm) seam allowance.

 
I am sewing here leaving 3/4" (2 cm) seam allowance.
 
Reference: Mc Calls Pattern Number 5989
 
 
END OF PART ONE.

Monday, December 16, 2013

2 hour handmade wallet (perfect for a Christmas gift!!)

 
TWO HOUR HANDMADE WALLET!

 
 
Hi, my dear friends!
 
I was searching for a nice Christmas present for a friend of mine from the church and I was searching the net in order to find something cute and affordable (because I am not working right now) and I found this blog www.craftbits.com . I really liked this wallet for two reasons: it is easy to make, take only 2 hours of your time, the most and it is affordable and as I had the fabric and the Velcro at home, that I bought several months ago; consequently,  for me it was the perfect gift to share next Sunday at Christmas after the service.
 
You may find the instructions and the pattern to do this wallet at the following link:
 
 
 
 You would like to make them for yourself or as a Christmas present for a relative or a friend. 
 
I was so excited doing my wallet that I totally forgot to take the "step by step" pictures to share with you.
Anyway, as I need to do another one, for my friend,  next time I will remember to take those pictures for you.
 
TIP: f
  1. For the pockets you may want to make one of them 9x 3 3/4 inches and the other one 9x4 inches.
  2. As you can see I have cut longer Velcro snaps.
  3. You may want to use heavier than medium fusible interfacing.
 
Happy sewing and thank you for visiting my blog!